Neue Halo B FAQ von Odyssey

[Grocho]

so ganz frisch von odyssey

(wenn ich mal viel zeit hab übersetz ich das auch mal *g*)

UNDERSTANDING HALO B



Why HALO is unique.

True Force Feed:
The HALO B is unlike any paintball loader ever designed. It is a true force feed loader that keeps tension on the ball stack . This allows the HALO to actually accelerate (faster than the gravity limitations other loaders have) balls via spring tension into the marker. It also prevents the marker from disturbing the ball stack with blow back pressure.

Computerized pre-feeding:
The HALO's built in computer monitors the motion of the ball stack, feeding when motion is detected. This ensures that a gap in feeding never occurs (unlike other loaders which use their sensing system to actually detect a gap - meaning a gap is REQUIRED before they feed more balls - creating a design limitation).

Spring Tension:
Halo's feed system uses a drive spring. This spring is used to store the energy that is used to tension the ball stack, and accelerate ball feeding. The computer controller and motor are used to keep tension in the spring - the spring does the actual pushing of the ball stack.

Sensor Limitations (Black Paint):
The Halo's sensor system works by detecting motion of the ball stack using infrared technology. Some black shelled paints are infrared absorbing so that HALO has difficulty detecting them. Because of this, we do not recommend you use black shelled paint (or half black shell paint) with the HALO. All other colors work fine (including dark blue, purple, etc).



Making HALO work best with YOUR particular marker

New technology:
With the new abilities that HALO delivers, markers are now able to fire at rates never before achievable. As with any new technology, adjustments to existing technologies sometimes need to be made to take advantage.

Why adjustments are needed:
Every marker is different (even individual markers of the same model often have remarkable tolerance differences!). Many markers are designed (understandably) to be as quick and efficient as possible. Because of this, in many designs very low air pressures are used to move the bolt back and forth.

Pressure on the bolt:
Because the HALO has spring pressure on the ball stack, there is pressure applied to the top of the bolt as the marker fires the current ball. Most markers handle this pressure fine without adjustment, some require adjustments in low pressure return to compensate for this added drag.

Ball alignment:
There are many variables that affect the ball stack's alignment. Bolt position, breach diameter, indent design and/or freshness, etc. Because the HALO ball stack is under tension, ideally the ball in the marker's breach should be kept in alignment with the stack. This is the default case with most marker designs. If this ball is allowed to roll backwards or forwards when in the breach, it allows the next ball in the stack to protrude into the chamber, which can cause the marker's bolt to slice the bottom of this next ball (as it is held there with spring tension).

Known adjustments:
Most markers work fine with HALO right out of the box. Some markers we have found work better with the following adjustments:

First off, with any marker that is having a feeding issues:
-make sure your HALO has fresh batteries
-make sure your marker has fresh indents
-make sure you are not using black shelled (or half black shell) paint.

Angel IR3: Most IR3s are fine out of the box, but if you have an IR3 that is chopping, we recommend you:
-adjust your Dwell from the factory setting of 14 to 17
-adjust your LPR to 95

Intimidator: Most Timmies are fine out of the box. We have seen some that have the bolt approximately 1/8th of an inch further back than most (causing an alignment problem). The fix is to put an adjustable RAM CAP into the marker which allows you to reposition the bolt forward, realigning the ball stack.



Caring for your HALO B

Storage:
You do not have to disconnect your batteries when storing your HALO, but if you will not be using it for some time, we recommend you take the battery cells completely out of the unit because alkaline batteries have been known to break down and leak battery acid over time.
We also recommend that when you are done playing for the day, you remove all paint from your loader. Take special note that you need to remove the pre-tensioned balls in the feedneck. Because these balls are tensioned, they do not fall out of the loader when you pour your remaining paint. You can fire these balls through the marker (fire until no more balls come out) or you can remove the hopper from the marker and they will fall out the feed neck. You can also wind the drive cone backwards (with the loader upside down) so that the tensioned balls fall out.

Cleaning:
Even with proper configuration and usage, paint breakage can still occur on occasion due to "bad paint", etc. When this occurs, usually you can clean your HALO by removing it from your marker, removing the balls, and then using cotton swabs and/or rubbing alcohol to remove paint. Be sure and pay particular attention to getting the sensor eyes clear of paint and debris so that they can work efficiently and accurately. They are located approx. 1" up in the feedneck.

Disassembly:
If you feel you need to disassemble your HALO for better cleaning, reference our Assembly/Disassembly photo guide to ensure proper re-assembly The HALO is a fairly complicated unit and care needs to be taken to properly reassemble the unit.

Common Assembly Mistakes:

-be sure you do not lose the little lid spring on disassembly
-be sure you connect the circuit board connectors the right way up (and not upside down)
-be careful not to break the capacitor off the circuit board during removal (because it overlaps the LED on the backplate). We suggest you remove the back plate and circuit board simultaneously, or slightly rotate the circuit board as you carefully remove it.
-make sure you run the wires down either side of the gearbox cover so that they do not get pinched. We suggest using pieces of scotch tape to assist you holding them in place while reinserting the drive cone in the body shells. Scotch tape is not required (the shells are designed to properly hold the wires) but it does make assembly easier.
-be sure you seat the sensors snugly in the feedneck. You can use a piece of tape to ensure they do not slip out, or perform a feedneck mod to hold them tighter if necessary.
-there is no reason to remove the drive cone, but if you do, you will need to re-tension the drive cone spring upon re-assmebly Full instructions on how to accomplish this are in our Assembly/Disassembly photo guide

Battery Weight/Life
We do not recommend you use a 9V battery with HALO. HALO was designed to use 6 double A cells. Alkaline cells are 1.5 volts each supply - totaling 9 volts. Most rechargeable cells are only 1.2 volts (meaning only 7.2 volts total) so we do not recommend them.
If you would like to reduce your HALOs mass, we suggest trying Energizer's lithium batteries. They weigh approximately 3 ounces less overall and last for approximately 20 cases of paint.

Battery placement
Care needs to be taken when putting the battery holder into your HALO. The wiring must run BESIDE the battery holder and not underneath or on top of it - or you WILL break your battery cover. When you put your battery cover onto the body, it should slide on smoothly with NO pressure required to align the retaining screw. If you have to hold the cover in place while inserting the screw, the wires are positioned incorrectly. Reposition them until the cover goes on as a precision fit and sits easily and smoothly in the proper location. You will be able to put the battery cover screw in without holding the battery cover if you have the wires positioned correctly! If you cannot, reposition the wires making sure the battery clip is not sitting on top of them until the cover sits flush on its own.